Got the Crank Shaft Pulley Bolt!!!

Alright!! Cause for celebration... Like I was saying in my last post, I was having trouble with the crank shaft pulley bolt because it was torqued to about 140NM, and I couldnt keep the pulley still while I tried to break loose the bolt.

Well, a trip to Bunnings (our local major hardware chain retailer), and some imagination solve that problem. I spent $40AUD making up something myself vs buying the "harmonic balancer" which costs $80AUD from the local car shop.

So this is the "contraption" I ended up using to hold the crank pulley still while I torqued loose the bolt.

Ok, so one of a bolt got a little out of shape!! :-P But it still worked!



Ahhh... finally got to the timing chain! Soon, the head will be off, I am betting its a bent valve!!

Damn Crankshaft Bolt!!!

Yet another bolt which I cant take off... slowing down progress. I have to get the crankshaft bolt off before I can take the timing chain cover off, which needs to be done before I can get the timing chain off, and then take the head off!

Anyway, dont have the right tools to hold the crankshaft in place while I try to break the bolt loose. So what I ended up doing tonight was modifying the Throttle Body. See, the SMT throttle body is DBW (drive by wire), but it also has a manual linkage. The manual linkage will be the one I will be using since I am disconnecting the SMT computer, hence the DBW. However, the manual part of the throttle body will only open the throttle plate to about 45degrees, not fully open. To make it so that the manual part of the throttle body will allow the throttle body to be fully open, I had to cut a plastic tab on the throttle body to allow the manual linkage mechanism to rotate fully to the WOT position. See pictures.

There are four plastic/rubber tabs as shown (2 on the left, two on the right). Cut the bottom right one off.

Once the bottom right one is cut off, this will allow the manual mechanism to rotate fully.

The throttle plate now fully opens.

Progressing.... SLOWLY!!

Just a few picture updates. Took off the valve cover today. Yeah yeah... I know... its only a valve cover! I've never seen inside one before! The cam lobes are much sharper than I thought on these engines.

Engine Out!

Alright!! After some struggles with the extremely stiff right engine mount bolt (broke my 17mm socket!), with the help of the extremely capable Tiang, we finally managed to drop the engine out! No bruises recorded on the car and us. :-)

Nothing tricky here, really just unplugged all the sensor wires, took the belt off, took the alternator off, ungased the AC, drained the coolant and engine oil, then dropped the engine carefully.

Tiang brought over two metal plates which we bolted to the engine block and used as lifting points.

The trick with dropping the engine is to have 2 people, and work slowly.

Damn LHS Drive Shaft!!

Removed the rear sways, the cross member, and the (dunno what to call this) bumper-guard thingy!! The RHS drive shaft came off without much effort, but there were some gear oil spillage (as can be seen! forgot to drain the gear oil! :-P Minor details!)

The LHS drive shaft is proving to be an absolute PAIN IN THE ARSE!

Is this the correct position for the stands?? My friend reckons he wouldnt trust the stands to be holding up the car from there. The four points I am using are basically the Toyota recommended lift positions when changing tyres... but instead of only using one point (to change one tyre), I've got the entire car lifted using all four points simultaneously.

Ready - Set - Go!!

Ok, here goes nothing...

Just started the disassembly this weekend. Did all the easy stuff... drained the engine oil and coolant, then took the intake, intercooler, exhuast and turbo off... oh... the seats too... then up it went onto stands


I am not working under just the hydraulic jack! This picture is a bit misleading. Caution: dont ever work under a car jacked up only by a hydraulic jack. Also, its always a good idea to put the wheels under the body of the car just as extra insurance!













I just know that I will forget where everything is connected, and just too damn lazy to take pictures of every single connection, so I just used masking tape and a white board marker and started labelling all the connections that I disconnected...
Ahhh... the power source of the 300whp! Hopefully a GT28R with water injection will be good enough!
Here are a few peeks of the SMT shifter shaft... this will eventually be replaced with a shifter shaft from a 6sp manual spyder (Japan '03+ model)... Oh, and the lovely SMT HPU (hydraulic power unit I think it stands for)... Thats going! Nice new location for my air filter!!
Soon to be the new home to a shiny new clutch pedal! :-D
Another shot of the new home... a close-up!

Found something interesting... The spot where the master cylinder goes is... ermm... occupied! Will have to relocate that alarm unit.


The wiring is a huge mess at the moment... fingers crossed, I will remember what goes to what! Better go and buy more masking tape. :-) Oh, in my last post, I really have to thank SimonTan and Tiang from www.SpyderChat.com who helped me with the list of parts I will require for the SMT --> Manual conversion.

Next, the drive shafts are coming off, then I have to figure out where to hook the engine upto the cherry picker hoist! Any suggestions?? :-P

Inventory List - Updated as I go

Here is the inventory list as I go along... really for anyone that wants to do this in the future.

Engine Parts (for 1ZZ-FE):
* Wiseco Pistons 8.8:1 compression
* Crower Rods
* Crower Springs and Retainer set
* Monkey Wrench Racing (MWR) valve set
* ARP Stud Kit (Head Studs, Exhuast, Intake, Main)
* High Strength MWR Bearing Set
* Block Guard... thinking about it, havent got it yet
* MWR 630cc Injectors
* Apexi PFC




SMT to Manual Conversion Parts:

Part Description	Factory Part Number	Quantity
tube, connector to tube connector	31488-17011	1
WAY (For clutch tube)	90412-12050	1
WAY (For clutch tube to release cylinder)	90412-12048	1
tube, clutch release cylinder to flexible hose	31482-17050	1
hose, clutch	90931-01144	1
tube, tube connector to flexible hose	31489-17040	1
clip	90468-08042	1
Clutch assembly, clutch release	31470-17051	1
Cylinder kit	04313-17040	1
grommet, NO.1 (For transmission control cable)	33577-17020	1
retainer, shift cables grommet, NO.1	33574-17030	1
crank assy, selecting bell (for floor shift)	33590-17060	1
bellcrank assy, shifting (for floor shift)	33580-17011	1
cable transmission control select	33822-17080	1
cable transmission control shift (for floor shift)	33821-17110	1
Bracket, control cable	33524-17010	1
lever, control shift (for flooor shift)	33527-17110	1
pin, Lever Lock (for floor shift)	33281-16020	1
clip	90468-04190	2
Master Cylinder Kit	04311-26050	1

Master Cylinder	31410-17110	1
Clutch Pedal Assembley (all components)	Multiple parts	1

TUBE, CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER TO 2 WAY	31481-17090	1
HARDWARE ITEM	90179-06274	1
HARDWARE ITEM	91651-60616	1
HARDWARE ITEM	90468-08040	1
HARDWARE ITEM	91631-60828	4
HARDWARE ITEM	90468-14035	1
HARDWARE ITEM	90468-14032	3
HARDWARE ITEM	90201-10042	1
HARDWARE ITEM	90468-14016	2
HARDWARE ITEM	91611-B0614	2
HARDWARE ITEM	90201-08077	2
HARDWARE ITEM	90179-06274	4
HARDWARE ITEM	91612-B1020	2
HARDWARE ITEM	91611-B0816	2
HARDWARE ITEM	91612-61030	1
HARDWARE ITEM	94130-60800	1
HARDWARE ITEM	94531-00800	1
HARDWARE ITEM	91612-61055	1
HARDWARE ITEM	90179-08025	1

Few more things to add to the list (21/01/2006):

* Complete Toyota Gasket Set (apparently this is still the best)

* Have also ordered the shifter shaft from the 6sp Toyota MR-S (Japanese version only) from Mr T.

* TRD Quick Shifter (I think I missed this off the list in my previous posting)